She designed by draping fabric on a size mannequin which not only afforded her a level of dimensionality that sketching does not it also gave her an active awareness of the physical responses of her textiles as she worked. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the first world war it re opened after the war and vionnet became one of the leading designers in paris between the wars.
Madeleine Vionnet 1930s Fashion Vintage Couture Vionnet
Vionnet mccardell kawakubo february 24 1987 april 18 1987.
Madeleine vionnet 1930s. For all her towering achievement vionnet was fashion s well kept secret after she closed her establishment in 1939 and went into retirement until her death in 1975 one year before she would have reached the age of 100. This woman was more than just the designer who introduced the. After a short marriage she left her husband and went to london to work as a hospital seamstress where she learnt about mass production.
Vionnet was forced to close her house in 1939 and retired in 1940. At first glance it is difficult to see that the roses on the bodice were created entirely of tiny hand rendered pintucks. History of madeleine vionnet who was she.
Vionnet trained in london before returning to france to establish her first fashion house in paris in 1912. Madeleine vionnet was a consummate technician particularly known for the mathematically precise construction of her garments as well as for her innovative use of the bias cut. Madeleine vionnet similar to jeanne lanvin grew up in late nineteenth century france where female education was optional.
Because the house closed with the second world war in 1940 and did not re emerge until the mid 1990s it is largely unknown in pop culture. Called the queen of the bias cut and the architect among dressmakers vionnet is best know. Madeleine vionnet was born in 1876 and grew up in aubervilliers france.
Madeleine vionnet madame vionnet was born in june 1876 and started her apprenticeship as a seamstress at age 11. About the look m adeleine vionnet modernized fashion through her impeccable craftsmanship and advanced designs creating fashions that were functional yet chic. Madeleine vionnet was a french fashion designer.
The names of chanel and schiaparelli are usually the first to spring to mind when we think about the 1930s arguably the most exciting era in fashion history. Madeleine vionnet is one of those designers who will show up in your pinterest search for vintage clothing or in a book about vintage french fashion. During the 1930s madeleine vionnet experimented even more with classical style draping and folding inspired by the art of ancient greece.
Dating to the spring of 1930 the ivory chiffon dress subtly illustrates vionnet s excellence at manipulating a garment s ground fabric in order to create surface ornamentation. Vionnet s exquisite technique and ingenious construction like that seen in her 1936 carnival dress popularized her designs internationally throughout the 1920s and 1930s. In comparison few are familiar with madeleine vionnet who was at the forefront of this decade.
Many of her garments were ingeniously constructed in one piece without any fastenings. Cubism and fashion december 11 1998 march 21 1999 museum at the fashion institute of technology. Feb 22 2013 the metropolitan museum of art.
The bodice is made from four pieces of fabric its bottom half is one piece cut on the straight grain and laid horizontally across the lower torso while the top half is two panels one.
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